A short flight to Puerto Maldonado and motorised canoe journey of a couple of hours brought me into the heart of the Amazon rainforest and more specifically to Refugio Amazonas Lodge. En route I spotted a variety of wildlife including two caiman basking on the riverbank, herons, turtles, kingfisher, capybaras and a variety of birds. Here I saw Brazil Nut Trees for the first time and was surprised to note that the nuts sit in a rather large coconut-shaped shell and more surprised that their texture and taste was similar to that of a coconut – it was mouth-wateringly good. I also had the opportunity to taste local roasted Brazil nuts with a sugar coating, which were like nothing I had tasted before.
From here I transferred to Tambopata Research Centre, famed for its clay lick and the large numbers of macaws which congregate here. Disembarking onto land the squawks of Macaws welcome was deafening.
The early morning wake up call was a rude awakening, but worth it, not least as on the walk down to the pier I almost stumbled over an armadillo. A short boat ride took us to the far bank where we waited patiently for the show to begin. Slowly the silence filled with the shrieks of Green-winged Macaws making their way to the clay lick for sunrise. Not far behind them were Scarlet and Blue-and-gold Macaws.
Seeing the macaws in flight was a truly spectacular sight – the extraordinary riot of colour – yet it is sad to think that without the help of conservation projects these beautiful birds may become extinct.
Night walks were interesting if a little unsettling. Disconcerting as it was not easy to see much and navigate through the flooded forest in wellies but also because I was sure we were being watched by hundreds of pairs of eyes. Thanks to the eyes and torch of our guide it was fascinating to spot insects, frogs, toads and spiders.
On a dawn walk I saw many groups of monkeys, including brown capuchins, tamarinds, howler and spider monkeys. Also a tamandu – a small anteater – sat in a tree hiding.
From Puerto Maldonado I flew to Cuzco and the stunning Sacred Valley. Visiting Ollantaytambo ruins along with Pisac I remembered quite how vast these sites are. At Pisac market, rather indulge in trinket therapy, I sat for hours watching and observed by the banter or barter, snapping the occasional photograph. In Cuzco I attended the Kuskikay ‘Chaska’ production of a young girl, revelling in the wonderful costumes, acrobatics, singing and dance and later enjoyed a walking tour of the city taking in the sights of this wonderful city.
From here I flew onto Puno (3,800 metres above sea level) and Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. Boarding a boat to Suasi Island, I re-visited the Uros Islands (floating reeds) and Taquile where a local family performed a festival dance. The Island is a real haven of peace and tranquility, with its beautiful gardens and wildlife – a great spot for birdwatching! The Casa Andina Private Collection is a relaxing retreat with its log stoves, Eucalyptus sauna, cosy cottages and not to mention beautiful views.
Returning to Juliaca to fly onwards to Arequipa the city was covered in mist; this soon cleared the following morning to reveal the rather large beautifully snow-capped volcanoes surrounding the city. Returning to Lima, I indulged in a full day gastronomic tour of the city in which I tasted wonderful local fruits at a market and later helped prepare Cerviche and a Pisco Sour. Notwithstanding my culinary skills, Lima is becoming the culinary capital of South America.
